New generation of derived natural polymers designed through AI
Rheology modifiers are essential in formulating beauty and personal care products. They can contribute significantly to the texture and sensory properties of products and impart unique and much sought-after benefits.
Today, the pressure on the cosmetics industry to limit the use of certain petro-based polymers, particularly those that are not biodegradable nor renewable, and the growing consumer expectations for more sustainable ingredients and cosmetic products are driving investments into ways to replace them with derived natural polymers.
At the same time, artificial intelligence (AI) is rapidly transforming many industries, and personal care ingredients are no exception.
Breakthrough AI-based development
Recently, due to environmental impact and regulation, the challenge given to R&D to replace petro-based polymers has never been more important. But the description of a polymer is complex. Each polymer can be considered from its chemical structure, its organization, its rheology properties, its functionality, its sensorial behavior. So, the comparison between polymers is a nightmare for a researcher because it is defined by many criteria such as texture, touch, aspect....
In general, derived natural polymer alternatives to petro-based polymers are developed from matching 1 or 2 criteria. In literature1, by academic, the best existing approach was proposed by Unired (Figure 1). This approach used just 5 parameters from a texture analyzer to compare cosmetic polymers. A Texture Analyzer is an instrument used to apply scientific methods to the measurement and analysis of product texture close to application.
Figure 1: Example of mapping of cosmetic polymer using texture analyzer
Until today, because of the complexity involved, a full matching approach has never been proposed.
The creation of a unique tool to compare cosmetic polymers
Humans don’t have the intellectual capacity to analyze big data. Cargill’s innovation team had the idea that new knowledge from Artificial Intelligence could be the right medium for this purpose. The aim was to create a tool capable of performing an analysis on big data and then generating predictive results.
This work was possible thanks to the support of Cargill‘s Engineering Data Science team, which has the ability to analyze complex combinations of performance features in depth. To this end, data science specialists used the PCA (Principal Component Analysis) model. This method simplifies the approach with a 2- or 3- dimensional mapping tool driven by multiple parameters. A cross-functional team of analytical scientists, materials scientists, data scientists and beauty application specialists joined together to define all the parameters that could describe a polymer in an unlimited way. 44 criteria based on rheology, tribology, texture analyzer and sensory data were identified. The evaluation of 30 polymers including petro-based, derived natural polymers and some blends generated over 7,000 data points.
From this database, data scientists have created a unique tool dedicated to the comparison of cosmetic polymers and the prediction of material/mixtures. This polymer mapping tool (Figure 2) is:
- Flexible: any of the 44 parameters can be selected
- Adaptable: any level of correlation can be applied to simplify the number of parameters.
- Visual: in 2 or 3 dimensions; each parameter can be visualized.
- Generate Innovation: good prediction of polymer association.
Figure 2 : Example of screenshot from Cargill Polymer mapping tool
Learnings from the polymer mapping:
Cargill’s polymer mapping tool has confirmed a generic knowledge that petro-based polymers behave differently from derived natural materials. Figure 2 allows us to easily visualize the position of derived natural polymers in the green zone and the petro-based polymers in the red zone.
This confirms that today, only combinations of derived natural polymers can offer an alternative to petro-based materials.
Based on Cargill’s mapping, new associations types have been generated to precisely match specific carbomers. Cargill’s polymer mapping predicts that one carbomer, a cross-linked homopolymer of polyacrylic acid, lies just between a sclerotium gum and a hydroxypropyl starch phosphate. Thanks to artificial intelligence, Cargill has been able to design a new area of association: Actigum™ Care, the ideal ratio between a biopolymer and a modified starch. Figure 3.
Figure 3: Modelization and positioning of Actigum™ Care as a mix of sclerotium gum and hydroxypropyl starch phosphate
The proposed polymer organization model (Figure 4) based on the combination of sclerotium gum and hydroxypropyl starch phosphate shows a composite system. This composite system provides synergistic behavior on rheology. This association also presents a solid and stable structure in the face of different constraints (chemicals or temperature).
Figure 4: Polymer organization structure of the innovative association
More than a pure alternative to carbomer
Outstanding stability
This new optimized combination of a biopolymer and a modified starch exhibits exceptional versatility, effectively modifying rheology across a spectrum of low to medium viscosities. It provides a new generation of rheology modifier with outstanding stability properties. The viscosity obtained is very stable over time at any temperature (4°C, RT and 45°C), at any pH from 3 to 9, or with addition of salt.
Additional Technical benefits
The combination acts as a reliable suspending agent for particles or to stabilize emulsions. Emulsion gels can even be formulated without the need of an emulsifier.
At iso-viscosity in a gel-cream, the biopolymer and starch derivative association is twice as firm as that made with a carbomer (-53% firmness).
Augmented sensoriality
This new rheology modifier not only matches but surpasses the functionality of its synthetic counterparts, with an enhanced sensoriality. The innovative association elevates the sensorial experience, providing a creamy and smooth texture that enhances the overall feel of personal care products. Consumers can indulge in a delightful application experience, characterized by excellent pick-up and a quick break effect that leaves the skin feeling refreshed.
Sensory Evaluation
The Bouncy Anti-aging Cream stands out for its bouncy effect. The great pick-up and soft creaminess are due to the newly designed material which is more than a rheology modifier but acts as a sensory enhancer. The comparison by the expert panel of Bouncy anti-aging cream with the new association of sclerotium gum and starch derivative versus Bouncy anti-aging cream with Carbomer showed (Figure 5):
- more peaking during pick-up phase
- faster absorption, a little bit more quick break effect and a little bit more freshness during rub-out
- more smoothness after 2 minutes application
Figure 5 – Sensory evaluation by comparison of 2 emulsions (Bouncy anti-aging cream with Actigum™ Care or Carbomer). Expert panel: N = 9 female,
Nb of data = 2, Nb of repetitions = 3. Caucasian skin type.
Significativity: only value higher than +/-1 were considered p ≤0.001 *** and p ≤0.0001 ****
Biodegradable & Sustainable
Beyond its exceptional performance, Actigum™ Care embodies a commitment to environmental responsibility. This innovative 94,5% derived natural2 texturizer is readily biodegradable3, reinforcing Cargill Beauty's dedication to sustainability. It proudly carries Kosher and Halal certifications, ensuring its compatibility with diverse consumer preferences and lifestyles, including vegan applications.
The innovative association has received an impressive Cargill Sustainability Ingredient Score of A, underlining its positive impact on the environment.
Crafted with precision using Hydroxypropyl Starch Phosphate and Sclerotium Gum, Actigum™ Care exhibits exceptional versatility, effectively modifying rheology across a spectrum of viscosities in personal care formulations. Experience the future of personal care with this unique combination – where innovation meets naturality, setting new benchmarks for performance, sustainability, and consumer satisfaction.
Reference:
1. Tafuro, G.; Costantini, A.; Baratto, G.; Francescato, F.; Semenzato, A. Evaluating natural alternatives to synthetic acrylic polymers: Rheological and texture analyses of polymeric water dispersions. ACS Omega 2020, 5, 15280–15289.
2. Derived natural according to ISO 16128-1:2016 and ISO 16128-2:2017
3. All the components of the blend have been found readily biodegradable according to OECD 301b
Authors: Cyril Lemoine – New Technical Business Development Manager – Cargill Beauty
Aude Le Grand – Global Marketing Innovation Manager – Cargill Beauty